Upgraded to a superior cabin with 2 bottles of complimentary wine was a great start as was the humpback whales "show" the first evening. Force 10 in the Denmark Strait was quite an experience but was part of the "explorer" feeling. Greenland was bleak and grim with pancake ice just forming, a foretaste of the Arctic winter that was really atmospheric. Katja led a great team of guides and the food was superb.
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